By: Gregory Lewis Staff Writer. South Florida Sun - Sentinel. Fort Lauderdale, Fla.: Nov 3, 2005. pg. 1.B

Smoked turkey and pork chops smothered in gravy simmered on a charcoal grill. Another small gas grill cooked up chops and onions.

Essie Reed, known in the neighborhood as "Big Mama," sat before a larger gas grill with griddle attached, stirring a large pot of grits while frying bacon, French toast and eggs up or over.

The whole scene gives new meaning to eating good in the neighborhood.

"We've got no lights, no electric," said Tiana Rhodes. "Thank the Lord for Big Mama. We've got this."
Rhodes, her three children and mother live in the neighborhood around Northwest Third Street and 12th Avenue, where Big Mama has spent the past nine days cooking up vittles for her neighbors.
The food has been donated daily by the Royal Academy Church of the Living God, the church Reed attends, and the First Presbyterian Church of Fort Lauderdale.

Tim Dobbins, First Presbyterian's missions coordinator, said the church is without electricity and the food would have gone bad if he hadn't given it to Reed and her flock.

"It's a blessing to work with her," he said.
The feeling is mutual from Reed, who went to the church last Sunday to say thank you and give the church a plaque for its benevolence. After the service, she met with billionaire businessman H. Wayne Huizenga.
"There's two of the richest people I know," Dobbins said when he saw the two together, referring to Huizenga's money and Reed's spirit.

Most days she cooks dinner: Mac and cheese, collard greens with ham hocks, pork loin, pizza and rice. But Wednesday morning she cooked a big breakfast.

Neighbor Diane Edwards was appreciative of Big Mama's efforts. "I ain't had a good breakfast since I don't know when," she said as she scooped up a fried egg.

It's no big deal to Reed, who was a short-order cook when she was 13.

"This is country cookin' outdoors," Reed said. "I do it because the people need to eat, especially my children."
The unofficial grandmother of the neighborhood, Reed has provided temporary shelter for kids who have lost their way, need adult attention, are hungry, need clothes, desire protection from violence or simply need to know someone cares.

She's done that for nearly two decades.

Poor herself, Reed's house on Northwest Eighth Street was condemned three years ago. The city relocated her to this neighborhood, where her reputation for helping people preceded her.

The city is in the process of rebuilding the house that was razed while Reed's friends try to raise the money to complete the project. But that was far from Reed's mind Wednesday.

"Alright y'all, Big Mama's ready!" she hollered when all the food was done.

Kids came running from around the corner, followed by adults who step lively for Big Mama's cooking.
"I'm doing good right now," Oscar Sterling said between bites. "Excuse me, let me put a little gravy on it."
Sterling said he didn't learn Reed was serving food until Tuesday night, when someone told him she was giving away boxes of dry and canned goods.

He left to get his neighbor, who uses a wheelchair, so she could eat, too.
"The only thing we ask is, everybody get one of each, so we can feed as many people as we can," yelled Reed, still frying eggs. A smile crept over her face as she watched her neighbors line up to eat a hot meal. She said she has fed more than a thousand people since Hurricane Wilma whacked Broward County on Oct 24.

"The restaurants might get mad," she said, "but we ain't got no money to buy no food."
Gregory Lewis can be reached at glewis@sun-sentinel.com or 954- 356-4203.